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Showing posts from April, 2010

The Valdivians

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My day was devoted to La Casa Alabada. I lingered this time, reading every bit of information, listening to the audioguide, and spending an hour on a computer learning about each pre-columbian culture, their origins, economy and artistic styles. It took all day, but I was entertained every moment, and spent more time with each piece of art. The Valdivians were not the first culture in Ecuador, but were known to be the first civilization to settle and develop an agriculture based economy. They were the first South American group to use ceramics. The archeologists who discovered the Valdivians suggested that they may have had a relationship or had contact with people living in Japan during the same period, because some of their pottery is similar, but that is not the current belief. The Valdivian society was complex and well organized and their stonework and ceramic figures are unique in Ecuador. They worshipped women, young, old, mothers and pregnant women. Each small ceramic female fig...

Casa Alabada

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On my first day back in Quito, I could not wait to return to the Centro Historico. I dragged Eric away from his computer and did not have an agenda, but found myself walking up the hill to the Plaza San Fransisco and to the Casa Alabado. It was finally open (I have tried to enter several times now), although it still appeared to be unprepared for many visitors. My impression is that they are still working out glitches and getting organized. The building is beautiful, an old renovated colonial home built in 1671 (an 'alabado' or prayer is inscribed on the lintel of the front door), with a stunning collection of pre-columbian figures, each one exquisite examples of Valdivian, Machalilla, Chorrera, Bahia, Jama-Coaque, La Tolita, Guangala, Panzaleo, Napo, Manteña-Guancavilca sculpture and ceramics. It is remarkable that works from each culture are unique and clearly differentiated from those of another culture, and that I am usually able to identify the origin of each work of art ...

Traveling Home

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I like the 'journey' part of travel, whether by air, train or sea. Once through security at the airport (which is never fun, but then I do not expect to enjoy it), I find a place to sit and pull out my laptop or kindle (I like technology, but am not very adept with technological devices...no matter), or wander through the shops and invariably find a magazine to read. I was at the airport far too early today, but that made the process at the Delta kisoks and baggage line and security relaxing and of course because I was there with lots of time to spare, everything went very quickly (it is always slow when I am late!). There were many seats available in the waiting areas, and I found a quiet place to read until my plane was ready to board. At the airport in Quito, Wifi is free and I think that makes alot of sense. It is not free at BWI or Atlanta, so I managed without internet for most of the day, except when I used my skype account to ask Eric to pick me up; I did not want to ri...

Food Issues

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As a child, my travel memories were often tied up with the food experiences we had, and of course, food memories still identify places I have visited and stayed in. I have been enjoying my favourite foods in Baltimore this past week. The 'Ambassador' has the best Indian food in town, and a lovely outside terrace location. I have never tried Indian food in Ecuador, in fact I have not ever tried to look for Indian food; I am far more interested in eating local Ecuadorian fare, so other than 'shwarma', which is very popular in our neighbourhood around Republica del Salvador, and one or two sushi dinners (there is a restaurant called 'Sushi' and another named 'Noe', both excellent!) I have not been particularly adventuresome. There is one Ecuadorian restaurant that I know of in Baltimore, and we have had several student dinners there (months after the intersession course we run), but the food is not quite right, and unfortunately often inedible. I do miss a ...

Dog Visit

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The best part of today was my visit to see Elmer, who appears happy and energetic and very very plump. I loved watching his tail madly wagging and his unending wish for acknowledgment and attention. I have missed having a dog in my life. The most uncomfortable part of my day made me want to run back to Quito and hide. Our renters have bought a new home and want to break their lease and not pay their rent. Appealing to their sense of decency and honesty does not appear to be working. I spoke to friends and colleagues and real estate agents and the advice is consistent, which is that I must contact a lawyer and pursue this legally, which feels adversarial and threatening. I avoided calling the three names on my list of lawyers until later in the day when none were available, which forces me to take care of this during my last day before I return to Ecuador. I realize that part of what makes my stay in Ecuador so appealing is that I have been living in an alternate universe. I have not be...

Mist and Rain

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I found myself absolutely delighted with today. I stayed up late (I am confused about the time so I read until 3 in the morning, a guilty pleasure which would not be possible with my usual 6 AM alarm to get Maya ready for school) and woke up late. It had been raining through the night, which reminded me of the jungle, where so often my night time lullaby is the rain. Of course, here in Baltimore, it was cold and gray, and not a bit of sunshine shone through. Emily and I went grocery shopping at Whole Foods, which was usually too expensive for me when I lived in Baltimore, but the produce is gorgeous, and I spent my time looking for fruits from Ecuador. I found Mexican mangos, but little else that looked remotely Ecuadorian. Whole Foods is a welcoming sort of place to shop, nothing like Megamaxi or the local fruit stand in Quito, but better than any other choices in Baltimore. I wonder what foods I will miss when I leave Ecuador. Definitely popcorn, which tastes better in Ecuador than ...

Not Ready to Leave

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Having a few days to acclimatize to Baltimore is a good thing. I want the transition back to our former home to be as smooth as possible. I am most worried about Maya, who is finally adjusting to her school in Quito and finding her place there. Her language skills are improving and she is more and more comfortable. It does not feel right at all to leave just as she is feeling at home in her school and her environment. When I returned to her old school in Baltimore, I realized that it was not right for her at all; it was never a good fit for her anyway, and now that I have experienced a very different method of teaching which suits her so much better, it makes it more difficult to return. Other than the school issue, moving back to Baltimore does not feel overwhelming. My office has been well taken care of and when I start working again in August, I will have familiar patients, helpful colleagues, and a good system in place which I will not have too much trouble adjusting to. There are ...